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Parallels between bakers and farmers Greg Mistell remembers
the first time he met with a group of farmers. It was early in his artisan baking career when he and four other bakers—all from big cities, one with a ponytail—traveled to Colorado State University to learn more
about wheat production and how the environment can affect wheat quality. "They looked at us, we at them. No one was talking at all. Finally one baker said, 'We use your wheat. We don't know much
about it, and want to learn more.'" That, he said, broke the ice. Mistell, still an artisan baker and also director of the
National Baking Center in Minneapolis, says there are parallels between bakers and wheat farmers, at least, he said, from what he knows of wheat farmers.
"We work long hours, you work long hours. We don't
get paid that much, you don't either. Sometimes, things don't go right. We must pay strict attention to detail. Artisan bakers have a brotherhood. Wheat growers probably have that
same thing," he said. Mistell said it pays for bakers and farmers to communicate more. "I rely on you, and you sort of rely on me. But you don't know where your
wheat goes. If you take a typical bun and I ask, 'where did the wheat come from?' You probably wouldn't know." Certain types of wheat varieties make better bread than other varieties, he
said, and consistent varietal performance translates into consistent baking performance. Bakers and wheat farmers need to find ways to work
together better, and by doing so, both ends of the supply chain will benefit, he said. |
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