Issue 44
April  2002

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Prairie Grains is the official publication of the Minnesota Association of Wheat Growers, North Dakota Grain Growers Association and South Dakota Wheat, Inc.

Copyright Prairie Grains Magazine
April 2002

FAQs about Seed Treatments in Small Grains

By Jason Hanson

Your seed is purchased, the fertilizer was already applied last fall, and the air seeder checkup in the shop is successfully complete. Everything is looking good for a hassle-free spring when it comes time to start putting the best looking wheat field in the county into the ground.  That is, until you discover that the seed treater doesn’t look as clean as it should on the outside, and upon further investigation you notice that it wasn’t cleaned out last spring.  And as you fume you recall the long list of reasons why you hate to treat seed or use a seed treater.

Most people that do treat their seed either believe in the benefit that it gives them, or they treat somewhat out of habit. Why do we mess with this equipment and liquid suspension during this busy time of the year? Does it really do what you want it to do—make more money? I have put together some frequently asked questions (FAQs, in techno lingo) that I get from producers about seed treating.

Why do I need to treat at all?
This is probably the most asked question when it comes to seed treatments. Most research that has been done with seed treating shows that the benefit is between 1-3 bushels per acre versus untreated. The economic return is pretty good even if the price for any small grain crop is currently poor.  The way I look at it, if you are going to invest between $4.50 to $6.50 per bushel for quality seed or clean up your own for planting, why not make sure that your investment gets some added protection from soil bacteria or insects? Maximum yield comes from having good seed emergence and good stand establishment. Treated seed produces a more extensive, deeper root system with increased plant vigor and/or tillering. That should produce an agronomically better plant for increased yield.

What is the cheapest treatment to use?
Cost is always an issue with seed treatments. One thing you should look at is what your intent for treating is. Does your field have a wireworm problem, or did you notice root rot last year take some of the crop? If that is the case, then the cheapest product is not always maybe the best product. Fit the right product for your operation, because then that seed treatment investment will seem inexpensive compared to looking at barley with loose smut, or a stand of wheat that has been hit by pockets of wireworms. Contact your dealer for costs and differences in products; everyone has their own opinions on what treatment works best.

Is the ground warm enough so I don’t have to treat?
This question always springs up at the tail end of the planting season, usually around that June 1 date. I have seen more stand problems with the earlier planted crop when the soil is still cold and damp. The later seeded crop gets into the ground and up very quickly, and the benefit of treating is not as great as the earlier seeded crop. If the ground is very warm and there are things like root rot or wireworm that are not a concern, then treating may be skipped. Getting the seed in the ground becomes the priority, because by June 1 you’re running against the clock for time in seeding small grains.

Do I have a wireworm problem?
Only until you see damage or spend time digging up spots within the field do you realize that there is a situation with these critters. Wireworms tend to move up to the top six inches of soil when the soil temperature gets to that 50-degree mark. This means that they can be in the root zone from shortly after planting until the soil temperatures get close to 80 degrees.  I have been into fields that have small areas of wheat and barley that are totally gone, and other fields where the stand is reduced across the entire field. The wetter weather cycle in many areas of the growing region has made for a larger need to scout for and manage this insect.

You can get more comprehensive information on wireworm management in the NDSU Extension bulletin on the subject, which you can find online the Internet at www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/bugcrops.htm.  Click on the “wireworm management” link. Since common root rot can also be an early-season problem, while you’re at the NDSU web site, also review the online bulletin “Root and Crown Rots of Small Grains,” which can be found at www.ext. nodak.edu/extpubs/plntdise.htm.

Should I treat my 96% germ wheat that is 61 pound test weight, or my lot of seed that is of poorer quality?
This is a tough question because that good quality seed is going to look really good coming out of the ground not treated. It might be out of the ground even quicker if it was treated, but every field and growing season is different. You’ll have to decide if it’s worth the investment, depending on your circumstances.  A poorer seed lot will definitely need a treatment, however. I have seen data where 91% germ wheat treated with carboxin and thiram only increased the germination 2%. But the same variety that was 65% germination was increased to 82% when it was treated.  But don’t count on seed treatments for miracles: poor seed is still mostly poor seed, even if it is treated.

So, consider a seed treatment as one step in the process of preparing for spring planting. The first thing to do, of course, is start with quality seed. Make sure you run a germination test on the lot and I would get a seed count per pound also. If planting malting barley in 2002, make sure you use a systemic product for loose smut. Don’t take a chance on it. Use a seed treatment that contains imazalil for root rot suppression so you don’t have to look at white heads in the fall.

Use enough product to get good coverage of your seed, but not so much that it plugs up your seeder or kills the germination. Most people water down the formulations to keep the flow smoother, and it helps to clean up the treating equipment later. Some new formulations of seed treatments are much better to handle and flow much better than the older products. Be safe and handle products according to label.  Oh, and one final note: don’t forget to clean the darn thing after you’re done using it.

Hanson is a certified crop advisor.  His web site: www.rockandrollagronomy.com